Glacier National Park Day 2

We embarked for Many Glacier early, driving through snow and cows (just in the road, you know, hanging out) to finally arrive as the sun was breaking through the clouds.  It was a sight to behold after nearly an hour driving through clouds - the giant mountains surrounding Lake Sherburne slowly came into view.

As we were driving the Many Glacier road we noticed several cars pulled off to the side and photographers pointing telephoto lenses up the hillside.  Curious to see what the photos were all about, we slowed down and there they were - a mamma grizzly bear with two small cubs right behind her.  She was foraging the hillside with her cubs.  We knew at that moment that our hike was serious, that there were in fact bears active and moving in and around the park.  We paused for a minute or two to watch, before driving on to the Many Glacier Hotel parking lot and the trailhead for Cracker Lake.

With healthy trepidation we entered the woods and began our hike.  We shouted as we approached every switchback with our bear spray dangling from our hips, ready if we needed it.  But it wasn't until we reached a berry field overlooking Cracker Flats that we really got very scared.

Lucky for us, the bears must have either heard us coming, or weren't interested.  By mile 4 we were pretty tuckered out, filling up our Nalgene bottles using our water purifier at the stream we found in the final stretch of the hike.  The final push towards the lake is a bit cruel as it appears when you see Mt. Siyeh that you are just one ridge over to the lake.  We kept thinking we were so close!  Instead, there are several ridges before you reach a vantage point for Cracker Lake.  When we crested the final segment of uphill trail, the vantage point was spectacular.  There below us was Cracker Lake, and it was the purest, most beautiful blue that I have ever seen.

Glacier Park has prepared for backcountry campers - a long pole provided us a perfect stash for our food and fragrant items and the food preparation area and campsites were clearly marked.  With the sun setting behind Mt. Siyeh, we quickly prepared dinner (dehydrated Kung Pao Chicken and Kathnandu Curry) as daylight faded and readied ourselves for bed.  Imagine my utter shock and dismay when I knocked over the Nalgene full of red wine I had been looking forward to all day!

What we didn't anticipate was the 70-80 mph gusts that would plague our poor Big Agnes tent all night.  By morning the tent was nearly plastered against our faces - no match for the gale force winds.  My eyes widened as I saw our tent poles in the early morning light, bent in nearly a 90 degree angle by the relentless wind.  I crawled out and to my delight, spotted a tiny sliver of light casting a pink glow on the top of the surrounding cirque.  We had survived the night.

I should note here that we did not pass as single soul on the entire trail on the way in or on the way out. I suppose most folks have the good sense not to brave this section of trail in the fall.  We lucked out on the weather both days.  I can only imagine what that night would have been like had it been raining or snowing with our poor tent as debilitated as it was!  As we arrived at the car, I felt a sense of relief wash over me, knowing somehow we had braved some of the wildest wilderness I have ever experienced at a less than ideal time of year.

With our tent in disrepair we had no other option than to head for the bed and breakfast in Columbia Falls a day earlier than anticipated.